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Showing posts with label Health Lesson. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Health Lesson. Show all posts

Vent Disease or Rabbit Syphilis

I had this crop up in my herd once from a rabbit that was given to me.   Since she was in isolation it was simply a matter of treating her.

Vent disease is not a particularly good disease to have in your rabbitry and often requires all rabbits to be treated for it.

some resources to pursue in one's search for more knowledge on this disease


Vent disease is highly contagious and can be spread either by direct contact, during breeding, and passed to offsprings to kindling. Any rabbit showing signs of vent disease should be removed from your breeding program until they have been properly medicated. Quarantining the rabbit from the herd for a short time should also be practiced.
Topical application of ointments may relieve the area of its soreness but will not rid the rabbit of this disease. Vent disease can be effectively treated using Pen BP-48 which is a combination of Procaine Penicillin G and Penicillin G Benzathine. We successfully treated by giving a dosage of 20,000 IU per pound of body weight. As with any medication, care should be taken to read the label so you understand how much medication you are administering to the rabbit. The bottle of Pen BP-48 that we purchase contains 300,000 IU per mL. So a 4 pound rabbit would receive 2.5/10 of a mL. This should be administered once a week for three straight weeks. The medication is to be given subcutaneously (SQ). A 25 gauge needle should be small enough for the rabbit, yet large enough for this somewhat thicker medication.
As with any antibiotic care should be taken to watch your rabbit for any signs of diarrhea. Hay should be free fed during the treatment to aid the rabbits digestive system and prevent diarrhea. You may also consider removing pellets from the diet for the first couple of days after treatment.
Rabbits Online (note this is a rescue forum)
 This link has pictures and a variety of links to look through.

According to Ferrets, Rabbits, and Rodents: Clinical Medicine and Surgery by Katherine E Quesenberry and James W. Carpenter, my source for this article, penicillin G benzathine-penicillin G procaine (sold as Combi-Pen and commonly referred to as pen B) administered at 7-day intervals for 3 injections (42,000 to 84,0000 IU per kilogram of rabbit weight given subcutaneously) is an appropriate treatment.
My Combi-Pen has 300,000 IU per milliliter. A 4-lb. rabbit weighs 1.8 kg. The range for a 4 lb. rabbit is therefore 75,600 to 151,200 IU or 1/4 to 1/2 mililitters or cc’s. The convention many breeders use is 1/10 cc per pound. Please make your own calculations and consult your vet before administering medications.
If you use Pen G, then you must give it for 5 to 7 days straight intramuscular. I find this treatment harder on the rabbit’s GI tract, though, and harder to administer. Other breeders have found that vent disease is more likely to reoccur with the Pen G treatment.

Treponematosis, a specific venereal disease of domestic rabbits, is caused by the spirochete Treponema paraluis cuniculi . It occurs in both sexes and is transmitted by coitus and from the doe to offspring. Although closely related to the organism ( T pallidum ) that causes human syphilis, T cuniculi is not transmissible to other domestic animals or humans.
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First time for this

I was checking Meggie's kits this morning and as I was counting to make sure all eight were still there and that they were well fed, I noticed that two kits were joined together and I said HEY.. something is not right here.

I found a placenta and umbilical cord joining two kits together.

So I cut off the placenta and cord so that both kits would move freely.

Hopefully there will be no adverse affects to this.
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Malocclusion in Rabbits

pic of a jersey woolie, that with two teeth clippings 
the tooth issue  went away.


Rabbit teeth keep growing throughout its whole life. It takes a lot of daily chewing and gnawing to keep them worn down to usable lengths

Malocclusion in Rabbits is something to be concerned about


There are several main causes of Malocclusion in rabbits.
·        Hereditary/Genetic. Malocclusion is a hereditary disease that is passed on to the young from adult rabbits that also have the disorder.  Malocclusion is due to an autosomal recessive trait with incomplete penetrance. Rabbits with malocclusion should not be bred and spaying or neutering is highly recommended for any rabbit that has been diagnosed with malocclusion.
·        Face or head trauma. Trauma to the mouth can also cause the teeth to become misaligned which will result in the teeth not grinding down correctly. This is often caused by bunnies pulling on the wire of their cages and so pulling their teeth out of alignment. Most breeders know if they have a ‘wire puller’ in the shed and take precautions to stop them doing it!
·        Poor breeding or malnourishment of the doe or young babies.   It can occur as a result of calcium deficiency which leads to osteomalacia of the jaw which allows the tooth to move in it’s socket.
·        Bacterial infections. Bacterial infections can cause teeth to grow in odd directions.
·        Unsuitable diet. Many rabbit owners think that feeding the well promoted commercial mixes from leading food manufacturers is enough.   They may be‘nutritionally balanced’, but they do not take into account a number of very important factors including the eating pattern of rabbits in the wild, the problems of selective eating, and the lack of abrasive material found naturally in grass.

Signs of a problem
The most obvious symptom is overgrown teeth but where this isn’t obvious or hasn’t been picked up the following symptoms can also point to malocclusion:
  • Abbesses in the mouth or jaw
  • Drooling – this can also lead to dermatitis on the chin and chest which becomes itchy and can lead to fur pulling (see below)
  • Fur pulling – this can also be a symptom of a number of other things as well but the most common cause (assuming your bun isn’t pregnant as does pull fur for their nesting boxes) is malocclusion.
  • A swollen jaw
  • Pawing at the mouth
  • Sudden drop in weight (due to bun not being able to eat)

Treatment
- The treatment for malocclusion is having the teeth trimmed every four to six weeks. 
I have to admit, I don't understand the trimming every 4-6 weeks.   Why?   I rescued a rabbit once that apparently had just had it's teeth done the week before, and the person was told to come back in 3-4 weeks.   In that week the rabbits teeth were so badly curled it could not eat.   So in essence it would starve for the next three weeks until it's next appointment.    Can't see that as being good for the rabbit can you?

some helpful articles;

Raising rabbits.com has this one on Rabbit teeth.
- adult onset due to dietary problems, juvenile, wire pullers, jaw breakage - these are all causes.

Rabbit Teeth Issue Survey.
- conclusion that not a lot of differences between rabbit breeds, tend to affect about 1.3% of the rabbit population.

Merck Manual - Dental Malocclusion.
- Malocclusion (mandibular prognathism, brachygnathism) probably is the most common inherited disease in rabbits and leads to overgrowth of incisors with resultant difficulty in eating and drinking.

Malocclusion.   by the Australian National Rabbit Council. 
- Malocclusion,also referred to as buck' teeth or wolf' teeth, is a dental disease that is common in domesticated rabbits. Typically the teeth do not align correctly resulting in such ailments as overgrowth of teeth, sharp spurs on the molars, and curling of the incisors. Immediate treatment is required to ensure the continued health and happiness of your pet rabbit.

This picture courtesy of www.firesmurf.webs.com

 
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Nail Trims and What Not

So yesterday I trimmed the nails of all the adult bunnies.   I do this every 4-6 weeks.   I find it interesting how some rabbits nails grow so very very fast, and others it seems like they don't need to be clipped.  Makes me curious as to what makes the difference.

I train my babies from the time they are young that they sit for three feet to be done, and then I sit them on their bums for the last one.   Training them takes the angst out of the nail trims for them.   I started doing this after I purchased a variety of buns who would TOTALLY freak out when I would trim their nails and thought to myself.. I don't want other people thinking I've got nutty rabbits or that I never do nail trims so let's get them used to this idea.   I HATE stressing rabbits out unnecessarily and nail trim stress is unnecessary in my opinion.


For some reason this time Vivian took extreme exception to me trimming her nails and I'm not sure why.... it was like she was some stranger rabbit.  Usually Vive lets me do anything I want.  She's a very goofy rabbit.  So it rather surprised me.   We both survived the experience with no damage.   Perhaps it was because I used different clippers this time and she is a sensitive to noise rabbit.    Silly beastie.  :)

Everyone else was a trooper.   

I managed to get German outside on the grass yesterday without him being this total nervous Nellie.   he was such a good boy and so thoroughly enjoyed himself.  Very nice to see this in him.      Even German did well with nail trims...he's an easily stressed rabbit and all he did was moan at me.   Must have been a relaxing day on the lawn for him.  :)


Shade certainly seemed to like being outside too.  :)   I may put them both outside again today...might was well reward good solid behaviour right?     Though it was funny.. normally when I put the rabbits out the girls will dig holes and the boys will just thump and look around and munch on grass.   I put Shade out and he immediately started to dig a hole and it's like "HEY SHADE! girls dig boys don't!"   Made my six year old son giggle at him.  :)
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Hard Lesson Learned

see this litter box?
See the label attached to it?

Make good and sure that you remove it from your litter box before letting your rabbit use it.

Did you know that even if YOU can't get it off... your rabbit might.
AND if your rabbit possibly can get it off... it means that your rabbit can possibly EAT IT!

Don't lose your rabbit like I did.

I found a two inch piece in his tummy after I culled him for pulling the litter box label off it, going off feed really fast, and suffering.

Really really really not a good way to lose a rabbit.

NOTE: this litter box I had (quite similar to the one it the picture, just yellow) had been WELL USED by countless rabbits. I was unable to get the label off, other rabbits didn't even try so .. I assumed that it would be just fine. THIS particular rabbit was NOT just fine with it and ripped it off and in process swallowed a piece. HOW he got a two inch piece down his throat I don't know.. but he did.

So.. MAKE GOOD AND SURE that all labels are removed before letting your rabbit have it. PLEASE!

Suggestions given to me about how to get a label off:

Blast the label with hot air from a hair dryer to soften the adhesive.
Soak in hot water and scrape off.
Apply some type of oil.
Use Acetone. (Some nail polish removers contain acetone, or find it in the paint dept.)
Razor blades work well on glass surfaces.
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